It's been a long time since Greeks walked around in tunics and sandals, worshiping Zeus, Aphrodite and Apollo. (Well, Aphrodite, they may still do). The Dodekatheon (the 12 gods) and its related mythology dominated ancient Greeks’ cultural life and the way they understood the universe and all natural phenomena. Sublime temples once dotted the Greek landscape, and the scattered fragments that remain from their original marble frames are still impressive reminders of Greece’s native religion.

Gradually but not peacefully, Greece turned to Orthodox Christianity, leaving its pagan beliefs behind. The initial persecution of Christians finally ended by Constantine the Great in the beginning of the 4th century. By the end of the century, in a classic reversal of fortune, Roman Emperor Theodosius I declared pagan religion illegal  and his successors made sure the law was enforced. As a side-effect even the Olympic Games where banned in the process.

The ancient religion did not stage a comeback, even during the Renaissance, when scholars advocated the rediscovery of Greek ancient thought. The Christian Orthodox religion had by then become the binding force in the Greek national identity and so deeply rooted to everyday life and tradition that it could not be separated from the very notion of “Greekness”. Lately, though, there has been a movement of “Hellenists”, “neo-pagans”, Dodekatheon believers, or whatever you want to call them, supposedly currently numbering around 40.000 in Greece – more than Greek Jews, and a little less than Greek Catholics.

Either way, when Christianity came to town, the country was studded with beautiful Christian orthodox churches, as well as monasteries and monastic communities, most of them built on top or just next to the old pagan temples.  Orthodox churches in Greece are innumerable though not all are architectural showoffs. In general, the Greek churches that are renowned throughout the Christian Orthodox universe are so in a religious context and not for their awe-inspiring looks.

If, however, you’d like to have a really amazing experience, go ‘monastery hunting’. Part of the monastic tradition was the ‘out of this world’ location for living and praying. That, in certain cases, resulted in complexes of expanded buildings perched in places were even a sane goat would not dare venture.  If you ever needed a proof that “faith can move mountains”, some of Greece’s monasteries are just that.

Best known is the monastic community of Mt Athos, and the monastery complex at Meteora. Mt Athos is the world’s oldest surviving monastic community. However, its tradition strictly forbids access to women (a prohibition that extends to most animals) and even men can’t just drop in for a quick visit.

Other monasteries are a lot easier to visit. Women must be ‘decently’ dressed; in some they are obliged to wear (long) skirts.  If a lady visitor didn’t think of that before she left home, usually the monasteries will provide her with (a rather unflattering!) ‘skirt’ that can be worn over trousers or shorts during her visit. (Tip: carry a pareo with you.) In churches, these rules apply in a much more flexible manner and the skirt policy doesn’t seem to apply at all. If it did, the number of female church goers, especially in the cities, would rapidly decline.   

Unesco has included in its list of Cultural Heritage Monuments some of Greece’s religious sites and monuments. These include the Monastic State of Mount Athos, the Byzantine state of Mystras, the monastery complex of Meteora, the cave of the Apocalypse and the Monastery of St John the Theologian in Patmos and the medieval town of Rhodes. 

Greek Orthodox Religion Monuments worth visiting 

The Monastic State of the Holy Mountain.

Situated on Mount Athos, on the easternmost leg of the Halkidiki peninsula.The “Agion Oros” shelters 20 Orthodox monasteries and is an autonomous theocratic state within the Greek state. It is also known as the garden of the mother of God; Virgin Mary claims it as her own and thus other women are not allowed. 
There’s a men-only policy. Only 10 non-orthodox visitors are allowed per day - you have to apply for a ‘visa’.  During your stay, you must follow the rules of Mount Athos and the monastery you are staying in.
Another great way to see Mount Athos is a boat trip around the peninsula. The boats sail from Ouranopolis. 

Where to stay?

Alexandrou Traditional Inn, Arnea 

The monastery complex of Meteora.

Situated on sandstone rocks in the area of Kalampaka, in Central Greece.The first hermits settled there in the 11th century, but the first monasteries where established in the 14th century. There were 24 monasteries originally, but now just six of them are operational. Four of the monasteries are men΄s and two are women’s. Murals painted by clerics and renowned angiographers ornament the monasteries.
In the old days, one could get to the monasteries by scaffolds wedged to the rocks, by nets and rope ladders. Now the visitors can safely use the steps carved on the rocks. Most monasteries can be reached by car. 

Where to stay?

Arhondiko Hatzigaki, Pertouli
Guesthouse Sotiriou, Meteora 

Moni Toplou, in the Lasithi area, in Crete 

The Monastery of Toplou, is built on the eastern part of Crete and took its name during the occupation by the Turks (“top” is the Turkish name for "canon" and the monastery was granted the right to have a canon during the Ottoman rule). The Monastery played an important part in the local history, serving as a "kryfo scholeio" a school carrying on Greek religion and traditions during the Ottoman rule, hiding a radio transmitter during the German occupation and standing castlelike in the most eastern part of Crete since the 14th century.
The monastery has a very characteristic bell tower, 33 meters high. 8 monks currently reside there, and the monastery is commercially active. 

Where to stay?

Aspros Potamos, Makrigialos
White River Cottages, Makrigialos 

The Holy New Monastery, in the village of Karyes, on the island of Chios

The Holy New Monastery is a monument of global importance. It was established on the 11th century and for centuries it was the major religious center of Chios. It has suffered an Ottoman plunder and an   earthquake and today is operates a women's monastery.
A two-storey building of cells has been turned into an interesting museum for the relics of the Monastery. It is included in Unesco's list of Monuments of Cultural Heritage.

Where to stay?

Perleas Mansion, Kambos
Argentikon, Kambos 

Monastery of Panagia Mytridiotissa, in the island of Kythira on the south side of the Peloponnese

In Kythira, there are 350 churches, chapels and monasteries, testifying to the deep religious sentiment of the locals. The most important religious monument though is the Monastery of Panagia Myrtidiotissa, “the Virgin Mary of the myrtles". Tradition has it that a shepherd found an icon of the Virgin Mary in the myrtles and built the church at that exact spot. The monastery though, was built in the 19th century on top of the church.
 It’s worth visiting the monastery all year round but if you have a choice, go the 24th of September, when pilgrims from all around gather to celebrate the finding of the icon. Or, even better, visit on Clean Monday the when the “Virgin Mary’s round” begins. Believers carry the icon on foot to the hora, 16 km away, where it remains for 40 days. During (Orthodox) Easter, it is moved around again, and enters all the churches on its way back to the Monastery. 

Where to stay?

Nostos, Kythira
Pitsinades, Kythira 

The Holy Monastery of St John the Theologian, in the island of Patmos

The Monastery of St John the Theologian in Patmos is perched on top of a mountain, towering the hora, which is built around it. The “Jerusalem of the Aegean” attracts a great number of visitors, for the 1,100 valuable manuscripts kept it the monastery (a manuscript maintenance laboratory operates there since 1992 to preserve them), the numerous valuable  artifacts and the Cave of the Apocalypse (where St John wrote the Apocalypse).
During the Orthodox Easter, the monks reenact the last days of Jesus Christ, a ceremony worth witnessing. 

Where to stay?

Arhondiko Angelou, Leros
Small boats and ferries go from Leros to Patmos and back daily. It’s an easy trip, but check the schedules. 

Byzantine and Medieval sites worth visiting 

The Medieval Fortress of Monemvasia, on the eastern leg of the Peloponnese.

The medieval fortress of Monenvasia, the “Gibraltar of the East”, went from papal rule, to Venetian, to Ottoman, and during the 1821 Greek revolution, back to Greek hands. The Church of Hagia Sofia, the Church of Christos Elkomenos, and the Church of Panagia Myrtidiotissa are just some of the religious monuments worth visiting.
The (car-free) lower part of Monemvasia is inhabited, and since the authorities state that all reconstructions must be made according to specific regulations -in order to preserve the fortress- all homes, hotels and shops seem Medieval. 

Where to stay?

Ardamis, Monemvasia
Byzantino, Monemvasia 

The Castle state of Mystras, 6 km Northwest of Sparta, in the Peloponnese

The Castle state of Mystras is a must-see along with Monemvasia, if you are staying in Peloponnese. It is of great historical significance; initially built by the Franks, then taken over by the Byzantines, held the coronation of the last Byzantine emperor, conquered by the Turks and was one of the first areas in Greece to be liberated in the 1821 Greek revolution. The walls and entrenchments surround seven churches, the palaces of the Mystras overlords and several  mansions.
The surroundings are a photo-op everywhere you look. Check the opening and closing hours before heading there.  

Where to stay?

Geodi, Arna Laconias 

The Medieval Town of Rhodes

The Knights Hospitaller (Order of St John of Jerusalem) began transforming the city of Rhodes into a fortress; around 1500 it came under Ottoman and then Italian rule. It is a wonderful mixture of medieval     architecture, Ottoman mosques and public baths and Orthodox Christian churches.
The places worth seeing are too many to list here. But all you need to do is get to the Old Town of Rhodes with a map in your hand, and start walking.  

Where to stay?

Marco Polo, Old Town
Nikos Takis Fashion Hotel, Old Town
S.Nikolis, Old Town

The historical district of Kastoria

Kastoria is the home of 54 (surviving from the original 72) Byzantine and post Byzantine churches, some of which have been restored.  The oldes church, (Koumpelidiki) dates back to the 9th century.
Don’t miss the Monastery of Panagia Mavriotissa, a 12th century monastery with murals on the outside of the walls, a common practice in Northern Greece and the Balkans.
Kastoria’s churches are a 101 course to Orthodox frescoes, icons and architecture.
It’s interesting that the Turks took out the eyes of all the saints on the murals decorating the Monastery of Panagia Mavriotissa. 

Where to stay?

Vergulas Mansion, Kastoria